Living in Oaxaca, Mexico

Moving to and living in Oaxaca, what is it really like?

For this article I am interviewing Julien, who fell in love with Mexico a long time ago and eventually decided to move to Oaxaca.

This interview is part of the Ask an Expat series. In this series I interview people living all over the world but outside of their country of birth. I try to help paint an honest picture of the ups and downs of living abroad, share tips for anyone thinking about moving abroad, and information about the place the expat now lives in.

Name: Julien Casanova
Age: 40
Hometown: Charleston, South Carolina, USA

Her Story:

”I first moved to Mexico in 2016 after becoming enchanted by the island of Cozumel.

I loved the laid-back island life – zipping around on a scooter to beautiful beaches and meeting up with new friends. The proximity to the US and touristy vibe made it an easy transition, but ultimately I wanted to explore more of Mexico.”

Why Did You Move to Oaxaca?

”I moved to Oaxaca because I fell in love with its culture and community.

While traveling around Mexico to explore different areas, I found myself always coming back to Oaxaca City when I needed a break.

The incredible cultural traditions and the people (both locals and foreigners) is what drew me back. Eventually, and without much convincing needed, I decided to call Oaxaca home.”

What Do You Like About Living in Oaxaca?

”First, the food. Known as a foodie destination, the food from Oaxaca is celebrated throughout Mexico. The traditional dishes are rustic and seemingly simple, but in reality they are incredibly complex and flavorful.

Second, the celebrations. There is a parade practically every day in Oaxaca whether it’s to celebrate a wedding, graduation, or another life milestone. One of my favorite things about living in Oaxaca is stumbling upon a parade while walking through the city.

Third, the many artisan crafts made in the valleys surrounding Oaxaca. You can travel in just about any direction from the city to find an interesting pueblo to visit. Many are known for a particular artisan craft or a special market day.”

What Do You Dislike About Living in Oaxaca?

”Having lived in a very humid climate all my life, the dry season in Oaxaca is difficult for me. The first year I lived in Oaxaca, I was shocked to learn there is virtually no rain from approximately November to June other than a few small storms in the spring.

It was late November and my eyes, nostrils, and skin were already feeling dehydrated. While I appreciate the cooler temperatures in winter, saying goodbye to the rainy season is always bittersweet.

The recent lack of rain is also a reminder of the water issues in Oaxaca (and many parts of the world) which is why I always try to inform visitors about conserving their water use.”

Is Oaxaca Safe as a Place to Live?

”Oaxaca is generally safe. However, it does have issues with petty theft and street robberies, most of which occur at night.

Like any city, it’s wise to take precautions. Here are three pieces of advice to minimize risk:

Be aware of your surroundings, especially when using your phone in public. I recommend stepping into the doorway of a shop or restaurant if you need to use your phone. Being distracted on your phone makes you a target.
Mind your alcohol intake (mezcal is strong!). While this is good advice wherever you are, I mention it here because it’s often deceiving just how strong mezcal is, especially when mixed into a cocktail.
ALWAYS take a taxi at night, even if it’s just for a few blocks. Some of the streets in Oaxaca are not well-lit and can become void of people at night. My rule is to always use taxis at night, whether it’s 10 pm or 2 am.”

Is Oaxaca Expensive as a Place to Live?

”That depends on who you ask.

Prices in Oaxaca, and much of Mexico, have risen recently. The influx of foreigners living in Oaxaca has put a strain on the rental market and forced many Oaxacans out of the historic center. If you’re considering moving to Oaxaca, it’s important to educate yourself about the typical rental prices in an effort not to further add to the problem.

Fresh food and local markets are abundant in Oaxaca. Produce that is grown in Oaxaca is inexpensive, particularly when it’s in season. Imported items are naturally more expensive. Eating out in Oaxaca varies widely from fine dining to street food.

There are also many free events in Oaxaca to extend your budget, such as music and dancing in the Zocalo. And there are festivals in Oaxaca throughout the year, many of which are free to attend.”

What Is Your Favorite Thing to Do in Oaxaca?

A woman with a bright red scarf and traditional Mexican dress standing in front of a large church — The Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church in Oaxaca

”From art shows to museums to festivals, I’m rarely bored living in Oaxaca.

One of my favorite things to do in Oaxaca is a temazcal ceremony. Best described as a sweat lodge, the restorative and detoxifying qualities of a temazcal have me seeking one nearly every month, especially during the winter.”

What Is Your Favorite Place to Hang Out in Oaxaca?

”I love taking in the views of Oaxaca and the surrounding mountains from a rooftop bar with cocktails. One of my favorites is Casa Oaxaca for its great views and delicious cocktails.

For a restaurant that represents the eight regions of Oaxaca, Levadura de Olla is near the top of my list.

And some of my favorite late-night hangouts include Zapotec Bar, La Nueva Babel, and the infamous bar, Txalaparta. All of these venues have live music nearly every night.”

What Is the Expat / International Community Like in Oaxaca?

Locals and expats at a market stand in Oaxaca — Locals and expats at a market in Oaxaca

”The international community in Oaxaca is quite active. Newbies will want to visit the Oaxaca Lending Library which hosts a weekly “Intro to Oaxaca” presentation as well as a language exchange and guided hiking excursions. It’s also a source for books in English and Spanish.

I met most of my friends at another language exchange that sometimes draws nearly 100 people. It’s an incredibly social event that hosts a mix of locals and foreigners who come together to practice English-Spanish and more recently French. All ages and experience levels are welcome.”

Any Tips for Moving To / Living in Oaxaca?

”I recommend renting something short-term at first to determine if Oaxaca is right for you. Like any new place you live, you shouldn’t expect things to be exactly like home. It’s best to adapt and embrace the change, most of which should be positive.

From a material standpoint, you can buy most things in Oaxaca. Although quality sheets seem to be elusive throughout Mexico. I recommend bringing nice cotton sheets if that’s important to you. And any small, unusual kitchen items that you love to use might be useful to bring as well.”

Also Read: Things to Consider Before Moving to Another Country

Any Resources You Found Useful During the Process of Moving to and Building a New Life in Oaxaca?

”In Oaxaca (and other parts of Mexico), you’ll find a lot of information in Facebook groups. I recommend searching for the answer before posting a question since it has likely been asked before.

Here are two main groups to get you started:

Expats Oaxaca is the main one but a search will yield more results.
Expats in Mexico is helpful for general Mexico and visa questions.

You can also follow Mezcal Speaks on Instagram for events organized by my friend Dary. He is the host of the social language exchange I mentioned before, and organizes other social events including a Tuesday movie night.”

About Julien

Julien Casanova has been traveling and living in Mexico since 2016.

She is the content creator at Oaxaca Travel Tips, a website dedicated to helping travelers discover the incredible history, vibrant culture, and authentic flavors of Oaxaca.

About Oaxaca, Mexico

Oaxaca de Juarez, or simply Oaxaca, is nestled within the picturesque valleys of the Sierra Madre mountain range in southern Mexico. It’s the capital city of the state of Oaxaca and home to over 700,000 residents.

This culturally vibrant city is revered for its rich heritage, colonial architecture, and thriving artisanal traditions. Oaxaca de Juarez stands as a hub of cultural significance, attracting tourists and expats who are looking for an immersive experience in Mexican culture.

In fact, the city, together with the nearby archeological site of Monte Albán, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

Oaxaca has a great culinary scene as well, highlighted by traditional dishes such as mole and chapulines, plus bustling markets and festivals, including the month-long Guelaguetza.

The city’s allure lies also in its welcoming atmosphere and preservation of indigenous traditions, making it an increasingly popular choice for those seeking a blend of cultural immersion and community living in Mexico.

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