Living in Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena is one of the most popular places to visit in Colombia. But what is it like to live in Cartagena?

In this interview, Adam, who calls Cartagena home now, shares his story, practical tips and the pros and cons of living in Cartagena.

This interview is part of the Ask an Expat series. In this series, I interview people living all over the world but outside of their home country. I try to help paint an honest picture of the ups and downs of life abroad, share tips about moving to the place the expat now calls home, and information about what to see and do here.

Name: Adam McConnaughhay
Age: 34
Hometown: Columbia, South Carolina, USA

His Story:

”I grew up in Columbia, South Carolina and studied History, Political Science, and Latin American and Caribbean Studies at the College of Charleston.

I spent a semester studying abroad in Havana, Cuba, which was such a unique experience so different from the states. While there I enjoyed learning (or at least trying to learn) Spanish and I found myself wanting to spend more time in Latin America upon graduation.

That desire, ultimately led me to move Colombia within just a few weeks after graduation.”

Why Did You Move to Cartagena?

”I moved to Cartagena in 2011 to work for a year as a volunteer teacher in a tiny town on Barú Island, close to the famous Playa Blanca.

It was a challenging but rewarding experience, and I found I enjoyed being in the classroom and I definitely loved living on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, so I decided to stay.

I also had a girlfriend, which definitely played a role.

I eventually landed a job teaching history at a bilingual school in Cartagena. A few promotions and another girlfriend that became my wife kept me from wanting to leave.”

What Do You Like About Living in Cartagena?

Sunset at a rooftop bar in Cartagena — Good food and nightlife are two of the pros of living in Cartagena

”There are lots of things I love about living in Cartagena! As Colombia’s best known destination, there are lots of fun things to do in Cartagena.

First, having year round beach weather is pretty hard to beat.

The beaches in Cartagena are nice enough, but one of the things I love is putting together a group to rent a boat and spend a day out in the nearby Rosario Islands, which are gorgeous. It’s also surprisingly affordable to do this, and I know it will be one of the things I miss most about Cartagena if I leave.

I also love the food and nightlife. With the cost of living in Cartagena being so much less, my wife and I are able to treat ourselves to some of the best restaurants every now and then. Cartagena is also a fun city to go out, whether it be dancing the night away or just enjoying a few beers at a local tienda.

I think though the thing I love the most is just the charm of living here. It’s easy to forget sometimes just how rare it is to live in such a pretty, colonial city. It helps that the people are generally very friendly and welcoming.

Also, I do love how much of the rest of Colombia I’ve had the opportunity to see since moving here. It’s an incredible country that never ceases to surprise me and offers so much. I’ve done everything from hiking in high up, tundra covered mountain highlands to seeing whales in the Pacific to crossing a desert, all in one country.”

What Do You Dislike About Living in Cartagena?

”I think one of the things that is challenging about being a foreigner living in a tourist town is it’s hard to ever totally blend in.

In Cartagena the annoying part about that is the street and beach vendors who can be a bit pushy. If I could change one thing about Cartagena, it’d be that. It’s all well and good on vacation and I get there is a lack of good opportunities for people here, but it can be frustrating to be hounded while walking to the supermarket.

But, I guess there are trade-offs for everything.

The year-round beach weather is both a blessing and a curse, as it can get very hot and there’s little escaping it. I’m not sure what’s worse, Cartagena in August or South Carolina in August.

While I love the food here, I do miss some good homestyle southern food every now and then, and no place serving good chicken wings in Cartagena ever seems to last too long, which is a shame.”

Is Cartagena Safe as a Place to Live?

”Cartagena, like many medium to larger sized cities in Colombia and elsewhere in Latin America has its fair share of safety issues.

Petty crime like pickpockets is quite common, but the more touristy areas of the city, which is also where most expats live, is quite safe if you follow general common sense guidelines.

There are some rougher parts of the city that are best avoided though.”

What Is Your Favorite Thing to Do in Cartagena?

”I think doing that boat rental I mentioned, for a fun day out in the islands is undoubtedly my favorite thing to do in Cartagena.”

What Is Your Favorite Place to Hang Out in Cartagena?

”Some of my favorite spots in Cartagena include enjoying a brew at BBC (Bogotá Beer Company), one of Colombia’s best craft beers.

I’ve been known to enjoy a cigar with a tasty rum or whiskey at Ron y Tabaco inside the Walled City as well.

For something a bit fancier, we love to enjoy sunset at Hotel Movich, which has an awesome rooftop bar with the best view in the city. We also enjoy the cocktails at Townhouse Boutique Hotel’s rooftop bar, which always has a fun vibe.

Some of our favorite restaurants include the seafood at Buena Vida Marisquería and the tasty brick oven pizzas at Demente in Getsemaní.”

What Is the Expat / International Community Like in Cartagena?

”There is a significant if not huge expat community in Cartagena.

There is a combination of international teachers, retirees, and a handful of business people and digital nomads living in Cartagena. Most are Americans or Brits.

I’ve never been one to spend a ton of time at expat meetups or things like that outside of having some drinks with coworkers, but there is a bit of a community.

And with the sort of small town feel that Cartagena has, you’ll likely run into people all the time anyway!”

Any Tips for Moving To / Living in Cartagena?

”My first tip for moving to Cartagena is to come prepared for the heat for sure!

Also, having at least some basic Spanish goes a long way in getting to know locals and feeling like you aren’t just being treated like a tourist.

The Spanish in Cartagena is quite fast with a heavy Caribbean accent, similar to Cuban and Puerto Rican Spanish, so be patient as you pick it up.”

Any Resources You Found Useful During the Process of Moving to and/or Building a New Life in Cartagena?

”There is a terrific Expats in Cartagena Facebook group. Lots of nice people there that are quite good about providing helpful answers and support.

That same Facebook group is also not a bad spot to look for apartments, which can be difficult to find online.

For housing I’d also check out local newspaper El Universal’s classifieds online. But just walking around and asking in buildings is also pretty effective.

Visa Options To Live in Cartagena

Many people moving to Cartagena first get a normal 90 days tourist visa. This can be extended for another 90 days, adding up to 180 days as a maximum per calendar year. The extension has to be applied for before the original visa expires. You’ll have to fill out this form and go to a Migración Colombia site.

For work visas, you have to have a sponsor that employs you. Your sponsor will then generally also help you with the vis application process.

There are also educational visas, and I have heard of people being able to live in Colombia on these visas while taking Spanish lessons.

There is also a retirement visa and there are investment visas if you buy property or open a business. And of course there are spouse visas.

There is also a new digital nomad visa that is in the works and should allow you to live in Colombia for two years as long as you earn your money outside of the country.

For more information about visas this is the official government website.”

Is There Something You Just Have to See or Do When You Are in Cartagena?

Exterior of the Naval Museum — The Naval Museum in Cartagena’s old town

”I can’t encourage doing a boat trip out to the islands enough, haha!

For something a bit lesser known, if you are a history buff like me, be sure to check out the Naval Museum, aka El Museo Naval del Caribe. It’s extremely well done and has some great exhibits on the colonial era British and French attacks on Cartagena as well as on Cartagena’s important role in Colombia’s independence.

That brings me to something that you absolutely have to be sure not to miss, which is Cartagena’s Independence Festivities held every year around the week of November 11. It’s pretty wild, but is always tons of fun with parades and lots of partying in the streets.”

About Adam

Adam has lived in Cartagena since 2011. He writes about Cartagena and other destinations in Colombia at CartagenaExplorer.com.

About Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena, or Cartagena de Indias, is a city and one of the major ports on the Caribbean coast of Colombia.

The city has a rich history. The present city, named after Cartagena in Spain, was founded in 1533 but settlements by various indigenous people in the region around Cartagena Bay date back to 4000 BC.

In 1984, Cartagena’s colonial walled city and fortress were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Nowadays Cartagena is a colorful city with a vibrant atmosphere and lively nightlife. It’s one of the most popular tourist destinations in Colombia.

The city has two main parts of interest to both visitors and expats: the colonial walled city with its picturesque squares, cobblestone streets, and colorful historic buildings, and Bocagrande, a long strip of high-rise residential buildings and hotels fronting the beach.

Cartagena has a tropical climate, with mostly hot and humid weather. The rainy season runs from May until November.

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Living in Cartagena, Colombia – Interview With an Expat