Mostar is a city in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina that’s mainly known for its iconic old bridge.
I just spent a month working from Mostar as a digital nomad and absolutely loved the city. But of course spending a month here is not the same as actually moving to Mostar.
That is why I interviewed Mirjam, an expat from the Netherlands who currently calls Mostar home. In this interview she’ll share both personal experiences and practical tips for anyone interested in living in Mostar.
This interview is part of the Ask an Expat series. In this series, I interview people living all over the world but outside of their home country. I try to help paint an honest picture of the ups and downs of life abroad, share tips about moving to the place the expat now calls home, and information about what to see and do here.
Living in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Name: Mirjam Buitelaar
Age: 45
Hometown: Utrecht, the Netherlands
Her Story:
”I was born in the Netherlands, and am originally educated as a history teacher, but I have worked for over 20 years in HR leadership roles.
With my husband, I share a passion for travel and adventure. After several longer trips across the globe, we got an opportunity to move to Dubai in 2015. Here we got to experience living and working across many different cultures.
Also Read: Why Moving Abroad is a Valuable Experience
In the midst of the pandemic we moved to Changshu in China, where my husband got a job at the United World College, an international boarding school.
It was then that I decided to combine my passions for travel and working with people across cultures into one. I started a business offering leadership coaching, team development, and HR consulting.
In the summer of 2022 we moved again, this time to Mostar in Bosnia & Herzegovina, where I continue to work as a leadership coach.”
Why Did You Move to Mostar?
”We moved to Mostar because my husband was offered a job at the local United World College here in Mostar.
While China was a great adventure and a very fascinating country, the strict Covid restrictions made life quite challenging. Especially the fact that we could not travel back to Europe to see our family was hard.
So, we decided that we wanted to live closer to home.
Mostar provided a great opportunity to do that, and to keep following the adventure!”
What Do You Like About Living in Mostar?
”What I probably like most about Mostar is how easy it is to feel “at home” here.
The city is not too big, and almost everything is within walking distance.
We live quite close to the old town and there are plenty of coffee shops and restaurants – it is a very lively little town. Especially in summer when it is booming with tourists.
People generally speak English well and are very friendly and helpful.
The pace of life is somewhat slower than we are used to, and I appreciate that too. People take time to go for a coffee and have informal chats, it’s an important part of building relationships in Mostar.
Also the surrounding area is absolutely gorgeous. There are tons of hikes you can do around here, and if you like to do outdoor activities there are plenty of options to do so. But also people who enjoy the beach are in a good spot, as the Adriatic coast is not far away.
Living in Mostar we have nearby beaches in the summer, nearby ski slopes in the winter, and culture all year round.”
What Do You Dislike About Living in Mostar?
”I cannot say there is anything I really dislike. Life here comes as it comes. But there are some things that might be a bit more challenging than I am used to.
For instance, getting to the airport in Sarajevo takes time (2.5 hours), and public transport options are limited. There is a train, but it only runs twice a day, and there are buses that leave more regularly – but they don’t go to the airport. Because I travel quite a bit for my work, this is a challenge. Also, flights from Sarajevo to other destinations are limited, except during peak season in summer.
Our internet connection at home at times isn’t perfect, and I’ve heard others complain about this as well, in certain parts of the city. But WiFi is widely available everywhere.
When moving to Bosnia & Herzegovina you do need to realize that this is a country that is still developing. Don’t forget that they had a devastating war just 30 years ago. It has left deep scars and hugely set the development of the country back.
Some things are just not functioning the way you might have been used to in other countries in Europe. But it is all a matter of perspective and what you are used to. So yes, it’s bureaucratic at times, healthcare is not at the level that I am used to, and the infrastructure can be a headache.
But if you can deal with these things, you can really have a pretty good life here!”
Is Mostar Safe as a Place to Live?
”I have not felt unsafe so far.
There are of course the occasional pick-pockets when it’s crowded, but overall I feel quite safe.
I do not hesitate to walk home alone in the evening. It is usually busy in the streets so that helps me feel safe.
Compared to Dubai and China there is of course less “monitoring” on the streets. In Dubai, you can literally leave your wallet on the table without any problems. There are cameras everywhere, so a thief does not stand a chance. Here I would use more “common sense”. Keep an eye on your bag and keep it close to you in crowded places.”
What Is Your Favorite Thing to Do in Mostar?
”When the weather is nice I love to go for a coffee or a stroll through the old town, or through the park.
It’s really nice to just walk around, and every time I discover something new.
The Old Town Bridge is of course famous, and after peak season is over it is actually a nice area to dwell around in the afternoon or early evening. Grab a drink on the river and admire the gorgeous views.
The bridge itself is, while beautifully restored after the war, quite impossible to walk on. The tiles are slippery, and the angle is quite steep, so it’s a bit of an experience to master the art of gliding / walking down. I would not try it in high heels!”
What Is the Expat / International Community Like in Mostar?
”If there is any, let me know! 😊
Well, there are a handful of expats living in Mostar, but it’s a small group. So, connecting to other expats here can be a little bit of a challenge in the beginning.
There is a small Facebook group for expats in Mostar, but it’s not very active. So when you arrive here it can be a little hard to find connections.
Then again, it is a small town and once you start to meet people you will soon see that everyone knows each other.
And because many people speak English quite well, you are not depending only on other expats or foreigners to connect. You can quite easily connect with locals too.”
Any Tips for Moving To / Living in Mostar?
”I would recommend getting a bit familiar with the culture and making an effort to understand the complex history of Mostar, and Bosnia & Herzegovina in general.
A lot of painful and horrible things happened during the war, and basically everyone you meet will have a story to tell.
You can still see the devastation of the war in parts of the town with several buildings that still have visible war damage.
The war has torn the city apart, and even though you might not experience it that much as a foreigner, there is still a “line” dividing the city into two parts. The river is sort of the divider between the Bosniak side and the Croat side.
Being aware of the sensitivities this brings can be helpful when you connect on a more personal level with people.
I can’t say that I experience this divide on a day-to-day basis though. People just live their lives like anywhere else. But every now and then you can sense it’s there, under the surface.
As said, everyone here has a story to tell and a burden to bear and it will need time to heal.”
Also Read: Things to Consider Before Moving Abroad
Any Resources You Found Useful During the Process of Moving to and Building a New Life in Mostar?
”Well, this is maybe an example where you can see that Bosnia & Herzegovina is maybe not that developed when it comes to expat life.
I could not recommend one resource that is specifically useful for an expat. Most websites will be in the local language, and I have not really used any so far.
But still, I managed to settle in quite easily.
My husband’s employer has been super helpful in getting us anything we need. So maybe we were very lucky with that. But in general, people will help you, all you have to do is ask.
There is a Facebook group for expats living in Bosnia & Herzegovina, which is a good group to join. Mention there that you are moving to Mostar and you will hear from a few foreigners who live here. They will be happy to welcome you and answer any questions you may have. And I’ll be one of them!”
Is There Something You Just Have to See or Do When You Are in Mostar?
”Well, most people visiting Mostar come to see the Old Town Bridge (Stari Most), so that will be on the list for sure.
Apart from that, I would say take enough time to stroll around, have a coffee, and watch the crowds walk by.
Visit some of the local museums to get an understanding of Mostar’s history.
And definitely make sure you eat Burek and Cevapi.”
About Mirjam
As an internationally certified (e)Coach, Positive Intelligence Coach and intercultural trainer Mirjam supports international leadership teams and business leaders who live and work across borders and who want to thrive in a challenging, international environment.
For more information, and to follow her journey as an expat, check out her website Followtheadventure.info.
About Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
With less than 120,000 inhabitants Mostar is a small city, yet it’s the fifth largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Located on the Neretva River, Mostar was the historical capital of Herzegovina.
Mostar was named after the bridge keepers (mostari) who, in medieval times, guarded the Old Bridge (Stari Most).
The Old Bridge, which was built by the Ottomans in the 16th century, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Old Bridge was destroyed during the Bosnian War and had to be completely rebuilt.
Mostar was heavily bombed during the Bosnian War, which followed the breakup of Yugoslavia. Airstrikes destroyed many important buildings, damaging the city’s historical center.
The war divided a city that was formerly one of the most ethnically diverse cities in the country.
Since the end of the war in 1995 great progress has been made in the reconstruction of Mostar. But, up until today, you’ll still find remnants of the war throughout the city.
Mostar’s economy relies heavily on the aluminum and metal industry, banking, and telecom.
Tourism is also increasing rapidly, mainly because of Mostar’s beautiful historic center.
The city has become a popular day trip destination from both Split and Dubrovnik in Croatia.
Mostar, and the Herzegovina region in general, has cold, humid winters and hot, drier summers. In summer, temperatures can rise above 40°C (104°F). The coldest month is January, averaging about 5°C (41°F).
Mostar is the sunniest city in the country with an average of 2291 hours of sun per year.
Also Read:
- What It’s Like to Live in Sarajevo, Bosnia – Interview With an Expat
- Working Remotely from Mostar – What It’s Like
- A Moving Abroad Checklist – Things to Do Before You Move
- 5 Great Reasons to Move Abroad
- Why You Should Use a VPN Abroad
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