What is it like to move to Dubrovnik? To start a new life in Croatia?
In this Ask an Expat series I interview people living all over the world but outside of their own country.
I hope to help paint an honest picture of the ups and downs of life abroad, share practical tips for anyone thinking about moving to this place, and share information about what to see and do in the place the expat now calls home.
Expat Life in Dubrovnik, Croatia
Name: Alexandra Schmidt
Age: 23
Home town: St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
Her Story:
“In my junior year of college I decided I wanted a break from being a city-girl in Chicago to study abroad in Dubrovnik.
I had never been to Croatia. I didn’t speak the language and I didn’t know anyone here.
But when I first stepped off the plane it truly felt like home. Little did I know, I was starting a completely new chapter in my life.
I studied diplomacy at Dubrovnik International University, conveniently located in the famed Dubrovnik Old Town. I made lifelong friends, who are both Croatian and American. And I had the opportunity to explore Croatia, while also traveling to other European countries.
What became a game-changer was that I fell in love with a Dubrovnik local, my classmate and Croatian tutor.
Throughout the semester we became quite serious, and by the end we had to decide if we would continue to see each other. The realist in me said that it would never work, but the romantic in me said it was the adventure of a lifetime I couldn’t let go. The romantic won.
Then after a long year of long-distance, I returned to Dubrovnik after graduating college. I began to work part-time as a freelance writer and began to write for several Croatian publications about my experiences as an American living in Dubrovnik.
After spending about a year living in Dubrovnik, I am actually now heading off to Ireland, but will be returning again to Dubrovnik in the spring.
No matter where I am though, I can easily say that this place has become my second home.”
Why Did You Move to Dubrovnik?
“I was originally drawn to Croatia because of my heritage. My family is Croatian.
Ever since I was a young girl, I was fascinated by my grandfather’s stories about life in Croatia and knew I would someday visit.
I was drawn to Dubrovnik specifically, because the orange roofs of the gorgeous Old Town next to the sparkling Adriatic Sea caught my eye.
I’ve always felt truly at home next to the sea, so as cheesy as it sounds, it felt like Dubrovnik was calling to me.”
To compare different cities in Croatia, also read this interview about living in Zagreb.
What Do You Like About Living in Dubrovnik?
“It’s easy to say that I love the scenery in Dubrovnik, because just by looking at the place, who wouldn’t!
But I also really love the laid-back mentality. Compared to the United States your worth is not defined by what you do for a living. People really do appreciate the little things in life here in Croatia and they are very genuine.
I also love that Dubrovnik has such a rich history. The city has been through so much, especially the breakup of Yugoslavia just over 30 years ago. I’ve really grown to respect Dubrovnik’s culture the more I learn about its past.”
What Do You Dislike About Living in Dubrovnik?
“Being a small town, Dubrovnik is truly like one big family, which can be a good and bad thing. It’s great because it’s so safe, but it can be frustrating as an expat. For one, locals are very kind, but it takes a lot of energy to get an “in” with them. You do have to put in a lot of energy to make friends, as it can be easy to feel like an outsider.
Also, Dubrovnik has become a very popular tourist destination. This means that especially in summer the Old Town can feel completely overrun by tourists, which makes many locals avoid the (beautiful) areas tourists flock to.
This over-tourism has of course also contributed to the rising prices of housing, eating out, etc. But I know many cities all over the world struggle with this.
Lastly, compared to the United States, things can move very slow here. It takes a while for projects and bureaucracy to move along, and that was a huge culture shock coming from Chicago.”
What Is Your Favorite Thing to Do in Dubrovnik?
“My favorite thing to do is to go out and explore the outdoors.
There are hundreds of things to do in the area, and some of the best aren’t even in the historic Old Town.
I love to explore the various beaches, go out on a boat with friends, and listen to live music somewhere.”
What Is Your Favorite Place to Hang Out in Dubrovnik?
“I really love the vegetarian restaurant Nishta in the Old Town and a Mexican restaurant in the Lapad area called Chihuahua.
Dubrovnik is filled with cafes and bars, so really there’s a ton of places to choose from!”
What Is the Expat / International Community like in Dubrovnik?
“I would say most of the expats in Dubrovnik are middle-aged, as it is a great place to retire.
Almost all expats end up here because they married someone from Croatia or Dubrovnik specifically.
There aren’t many foreigners living in Dubrovnik, but there are a few expat groups that meet regularly, which are a great support system to have.
Join the Facebook group for expats in Dubrovnik to find out more about the international community here.
In recent years Dubrovnik has become a more popular digital nomad destination so that’s changing the international community a bit and creates a nice mix of people.”
Any Tips for Moving to / Living in Dubrovnik?
“In all honesty, Croatia in general is a hard place to be an expat, especially if you are not an EU citizen.
If you are preparing to move to Dubrovnik, just be ready to spend a significant amount of time and money to sort everything out.
It is easier to come as a student or if you want to just live here on temporary residency, but there is a lot of red tape in order to work here without citizenship. For example, I had a job offer for a local newspaper, but unfortunately as an American, it was impossible to do in Croatia’s quota system.
Some people have found ways to open their own businesses or somehow found a way to work for a foreign company with offices in Dubrovnik or other parts of Croatia.
Some people find ways to work remotely while on temporary residency, which is similar to what I did.
A few years ago Croatia introduced a special digital nomad visa. If you can work remotely and meet the financial requirements for this visa, that’s definitely the easiest way to start life in Croatia.
It is a lot easier to come to Dubrovnik as an EU citizen, but speaking from an American perspective, it was very difficult to find work, especially since the job market is not booming.
However, it’s all worth the time and effort if you want to live in paradise!”
Any Resources You Found Useful During the Process of Moving to and Building a New Life in Dubrovnik?
“Most of my resources were through word of mouth, since there still isn’t a very large expat community in Dubrovnik.
The Facebook group I mentioned before, for expats in Dubrovnik, offers some useful information and is a great place to ask any questions you may have.
I also worked with the local police station in Dubrovnik, and I even know some people who hired lawyers to help with the process.
To find out where to live in Dubrovnik, Njuskalo.hr is a popular website to look for accommodation.”
Is There Something You Just Have to See or Do When You Are in Dubrovnik?
“The obvious thing is that you have to see the city walls because it has the best view of the old town.
You also have to eat fresh seafood and try some of the strong Rakija alcohol.
Lastly, you must take a trip out of the Old Town area, either to Cavtat, Konavle, Peljesac, or the island of Mljet.
There are seriously infinite amounts of places to visit in the area, with beauty you truly have to see to believe.
It may be challenging becoming an expat in Croatia, but for the incredible scenery and the Croatian culture, it’s a rewarding endeavor.”
Also Read: Where to go in Croatia – The Best Places to Visit
About Alex – An expat in Dubrovnik
Alex was born with a fiery spirit in the Twin Cities of Minnesota, and later chased her dreams of becoming a city girl in Chicago, one of the most beautiful cities in the USA.
She studied at Loyola University while studying abroad twice in Nice, France for a summer and Dubrovnik, Croatia for a semester.
Not only is she a globetrotter, she is also passionate about sustainability and living a conscious lifestyle.
Her blog, The Mindful Mermaid, is a platform for her to share experiences while promoting mindful travel and living.
About Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is a city in southern Croatia on the Adriatic Sea. It is known for its distinctive Old Town, encircled by massive stone walls completed in the 16th century.
Dubrovnik is nicknamed “Pearl of the Adriatic” with tourism being the most important industry.
Dubrovnik’s architecture is simply gorgeous and on top of that it boasts spectacular churches, monasteries, museums, and fountains.
Dubrovnik is also a perfect location from where to explore the surrounding area. Some recommendations: The Elaphiti Islands, the attractive town of Cavtat, the Konavle valley, Mljet Island, Korčula Island, Ston, and Peljesac Peninsula.
The neighboring town of Kotor in Montenegro or Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina also make for great day trips.
Also Read:
- 5 of the Best Places to Visit in Croatia Besides Dubrovnik
- Things to Consider Before You Move to Another Country
- 5 Great Reasons to Move Abroad
- Interview About Living in Zagreb, Croatia
- Small Ship Cruises in Croatia – What You Need to Know Before You Book
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I would definitely join the expats in Dubrovnik Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1790700471164075/
And then just post a message there asking who would like to meet up for coffee. Also if you have any other questions about moving to or living in Dubrovnik that’s a useful group.
Hello! I am going to Dubrovnik in November for 2 months, actually staying in Bosanka. I am going alone, in my late 30’s. Are there any groups or anyone you can put me in touch with to get started with when I get there? I am trying to get contacts before I go 🙂 Thank you so much
Hi Terri,
I have heard a lot of good things about expat life in Split, so that might be a good option! There are 2 useful Facebook groups for expats in Split: https://www.facebook.com/groups/SplitSplitters/ and https://www.facebook.com/groups/xpatsinsplit/
So I would recommend joining these groups and just asking questions there about what life is like in Split (and anything else you would like to know).
I spent 3 months in Croatia last year. I went to Dubrovnik both in July and November. I’d like to go back to live somewhere in Croatia. I spent 6 weeks in Zagreb taking dance classes. The dancing was one of the best experiences of my life. However, I don’t think Zagreb is somewhere I’d want to live. Do you think Split would be easier to make English speaking friends than Dubrovnik? There’s nothing that compares to the beauty of Dubrovnik, but I’m afraid I’d be lonely.
Dubrovnik is really high on my to go list and any information is always welcome. The view from an expat is a very privileged one. Has more objectivity than a local but time enough to know well the place.
Great article, really gives a unique insight to the place. I was recently in Northern Croatia but really have to visit the rest of it, such a lovely place. Thanks for sharing.
Wonderful insight into Dubrovnik. I have been fortunate enough to have spent 10 days in the city and surroundings, and I must say I was impressed with the natural and architectural beauty, great food and warm, welcoming people. The Old Town was remarkably restored after the war. Hope to be back some day!
Very useful information and interesting stories from your article. I have never known of Dubrovnik as an expat city, but now I get to know more about it thanks to your interview.
I haven’t been to Croatia yet. Its an intriguing nation. So thanks for this first hand, honest info about the country. 🙂
Good for you – it sounds like a real adventure. How much would you need If you were visiting for a two week holiday? Is it cheap? Having read your article it sounds like a great place to visit. I think being an expat without the language is always a challenge. Good for you!
Thanks Scott! Well cost depends on what time of year you come and also on what type of accommodation you’re looking for. You can find apartments on airbnb or booking.com for 35-50 euros a night and up.
Dubrovnik is expensive compared to the rest of Croatia, but reasonable compared to the rest of Europe. You can do a lot of things for free, or rent a car and drive places as well. A meal at a decent restaurant is going to be about 12 euros. But it’s easy to get around and budget as well.
Again, cost depends on the time of year. I would recommend May or September 🙂
Thats an interesting Article. I like that you are not writing “everything is awesome” but honestly say that it can be hard to be an expat in Dubrovnik. I am an Expat in Paris and everyone is all like: ahh awesome, so nice … while it actually isn’t that easy at all times.
But having a loving local by your side makes everything easier and helps to settle down! 🙂
However, I really would like to visit Dubrovnik, not only because I am a huge fan of Game of Thrones 🙂
Dubrovnik is a beautiful city and a place I loved visiting. I loved walking the city walls and around the town itself and exploring some areas a bit further out 🙂
I’m not sure what excited me more – learning about Alexandra’s experience in Dubrovnik or the fact that she’s originally from MN! I’m from the Caribbean but went to college in Minnesota, so I had a similar experience as a foreigner in her home:) Croatia has been on my travel list for a while now and I’m really hoping to get there in 2018 – this was great motivation!
Sounds like you had some great travel experiences as an undergrad. Props to you for following your heart as well. It will be interesting to see how Ireland compares to your experience in Croatia.
Croatia has been one of my favorite places to visit thus far! The culture and the people are amazing and I am glad you have felt the same way about being there. I am looking to go back very soon, can’t wait to read more about your experience!
Very cool article, and a huge step in moving to Croatia. I can’t wait to read more about Croatia now 🙂
Alex! I loved Dubrovnik and now I want to go back and explore more outside the old city. I live in Dublin, so let me know if you need any advice moving here. You’re going to love it.
I’ve always wondered about Croatia. It’s been on my bucket list for a while…and it doesn’t surprise me that she found love there-I ALWAYS hear about how gorgeous the men are! Anyway this was very interesting to read. I love how everyone I’ve ever spoken to about Croatia has never had anything negative to say about it. I will definitely be making my way there in the near future.